{"product_id":"can-you-layer-dtf-transfers-5-layering-rules-that-will-save-you-costly-reprints","title":"Can You Layer DTF Transfers? 5 Layering Rules That Will Save You Costly Reprints","description":"\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCan you layer DTF transfers? Yes, and it’s the best way to create multi-color, puff, and textured designs without screen printing.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe DTF Layering Process means pressing one transfer, letting it cool, peeling the film, then pressing the next layer directly on top. When done right, each layer bonds for 50+ washes and looks clean. When done wrong, you get peeling edges, ghost outlines, and shirts that end up in the trash.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOne bad reprint costs time, ink, film, and a customer. Most failures come down to 5 simple mistakes with heat, pressure, and timing.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis guide breaks down those 5 layering rules step by step. You’ll learn the exact temperature, cooling time, and press technique that gives consistent results every time.  \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIf you want to save money, reduce waste, and offer more complex designs with confidence, keep reading. These rules will make your layered DTF prints reliable from the first press.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhat DTF Layering Actually Means\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBefore we get into rules, let’s define it. Layering DTF prints means pressing one DTF transfer on top of another DTF transfer on the same garment. Each layer is its own film, with adhesive, ink, and white.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis is different from overlapping two parts of one design. That’s a gang sheet trick. This is stacking.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDTF heat transfers use powder adhesive that melts and bonds to fabric at about 325°F to 330°F for 10 to 15 seconds on medium pressure, roughly 40 to 60 psi on a clamshell press. When you add a second layer, you’re reheating the first layer. Do that wrong and you’ll cook the adhesive out, fade the ink, or get a shiny box around your art.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAnd that’s why people ask, can you press DTF twice? Yes. But only if you follow the rules below.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe 5 Layering Rules That Prevent Reprints\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRule 1: Never Put A Dark Color On Top Of Another Dark Color\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis is the number one mistake we see in shops from Allen to Carrollton.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDark ink on dark ink kills vibrancy. The bottom layer’s color mutes the top. You end up with muddy brown instead of rich navy, or a black that disappears into a black shirt.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIt works well because DTF relies on a white base for color pop. When you stack two CMYK-heavy films, the top one blocks light from bouncing off the bottom white. You lose 30 to 40 percent of brightness in testing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhat to do instead. Keep darks as the bottom layer only. If you need two dark elements, print them as one film. Or use the bottom dark as a shadow and let the top layer be white, metallic, or a bright accent. For example, a black outline should go down first, then a neon graphic on top. Never the other way around.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRule 2: Always Press The First Layer Light, Then Full Press The Top Layer\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTime and pressure are everything.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHere’s the press routine that works across 90 percent of cotton-poly blends:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFirst layer gets 5 to 7 seconds at 325°F, medium pressure. Peel. That tacks it down but doesn’t fully cure the adhesive.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSecond layer gets the full 10 to 15 seconds at the same temp. Peel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThen do a final 5-second post-press with a teflon sheet over the whole design. No peeling here, just heat and pressure to lock everything.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhy light first? Because a full cure on layer one means layer two won’t bond to it. You’ll get lifting after wash 3. But if you go too light, layer one will shift when you place layer two.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe tested this with 200 shirts for a brand in Sachse. Light first, full second, post-press. Zero failures after 50 washes. Full press both layers? 18 percent failure rate. That’s real money.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRule 3: Leave A 1 To 2mm Gap. Do Not Overlap DTF Transfers Directly\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eI know it’s tempting to butt two designs together for a seamless look. Don’t.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhen you overlap DTF transfers, you double the ink and adhesive in that spot. That area gets stiffer, shinier, and it cracks first. It also creates a visible ridge you can feel. Customers notice.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInstead, design with a small gap. Let the shirt show through. Or if you need them touching, knock out the bottom layer where the top will sit. Most RIP software can do this in 10 seconds.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis rule saved a University Park streetwear brand $2,800 last quarter. They were overlapping a white base and a color layer to avoid white fringing. We showed them how to choke the white by 1.5mm instead. Same look, no ridge, and their returns dropped to almost zero.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRule 4: Use Contrast And Texture, Not Just More Ink\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLayering isn’t about making a print thicker. Thicker isn’t better.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe best DTF transfer techniques use layers for effect. Puff under foil. Glow under white. Metallic behind text. Clear film over color to add gloss.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA good rule: only layer if the top layer adds something the bottom can’t do alone. If you’re just adding another color that could have been printed together, combine them on one film. You’ll save film cost and press time.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFilm costs about $0.80 to $1.20 per square foot. Press time is roughly $0.35 per minute when you factor labor and machine wear. Two presses instead of one adds up fast on a 500-piece run.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSo ask before every layer: does this add contrast, texture, or dimension? If no, don’t press it.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRule 5: Cure Each Layer, But Don’t Cook The Garment\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGarments have a heat limit. Most 100 percent cotton tees start to scorch or yellow after 45 seconds of total heat. Poly blends will dye-migrate even faster.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThat’s why the post-press matters. It’s short, 5 seconds, and it’s the difference between a print that lasts and one that washes out. Use a teflon cover sheet. It distributes heat and prevents gloss marks.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlso check your platen. If you’re doing layered DTF transfer layering on thick hoodies, use a pressing pillow. It keeps pressure even. Uneven pressure is why edges lift in Highland Park boutique orders where every piece is inspected.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIf you’re doing multi-layer DTF heat transfers daily, log your times. 10 seconds plus 10 seconds plus 5 seconds equals 25 seconds. That’s your max for most tees. Go over and you’ll see problems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.picassoprintdtf.com\/products\/dtf-gang-sheet\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUpload your custom artwork\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and we’ll press a 2-layer sample with the exact settings above. You’ll see the difference before you commit to a full run.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCan You Press DTF Twice On The Same Spot?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eShort answer: yes, but only the way we described.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePressing the same spot twice with full time both times will dull the ink and kill the hand feel. The print will feel like plastic.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe trick is that first light tack. It holds position. The second full press does the real bonding. The final short press evens it out.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe’ve done 3-layer jobs for tour merch in Farmers Branch. White base, color, then puff. Total heat time was 22 seconds. Still soft, still bright after 30 washes. It works if you respect the heat budget.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCommon Layering Combos That Work\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou don’t need to experiment blind. These combos are proven:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli dir=\"ltr\" aria-level=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\" role=\"presentation\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhite base layer, then CMYK top. Standard, gives you the brightest color.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli dir=\"ltr\" aria-level=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\" role=\"presentation\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePuff adhesive layer, then metallic foil layer on top. Gives you raised shine.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli dir=\"ltr\" aria-level=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\" role=\"presentation\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGlow ink layer, then white outline layer. Makes the glow pop at night.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli dir=\"ltr\" aria-level=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\" role=\"presentation\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eClear DTF over CMYK. Adds a glossy, automotive look without extra color.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eEach of these follows the rules above. Dark on bottom, light on top. Gaps, not overlaps. Light press first.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHow To Layer DTF Transfers Step By Step\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHere’s the exact workflow we teach new operators:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col\u003e\n\u003cli dir=\"ltr\" aria-level=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\" role=\"presentation\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStep 1, print and powder both films. Cure the powder at 300°F for 2 minutes in a dryer.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli dir=\"ltr\" aria-level=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\" role=\"presentation\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStep 2, place layer one on the shirt. Press 5 to 7 seconds. Peel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli dir=\"ltr\" aria-level=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\" role=\"presentation\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStep 3, align layer two. Use registration marks in your art. Press 10 to 15 seconds. Peel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli dir=\"ltr\" aria-level=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\" role=\"presentation\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStep 4, cover with teflon. Post-press 5 seconds.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli dir=\"ltr\" aria-level=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\" role=\"presentation\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStep 5, let it cool flat for 30 seconds before folding.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDo not stack hot shirts. Heat needs to dissipate or you’ll get dye migration on the next press.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFinal Thoughts\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLayering opens up a lot of creative room. You can get effects that make a shirt feel premium. But it only works if you respect the heat, the gaps, and the order.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDon’t put dark on dark. Tack light, cure full, post-press short. Leave space between layers. Add texture, not just ink. And watch your total heat time.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIf you’re in Plano, Dallas, Garland, Allen, or anywhere nearby and you want this done right without the learning curve, talk to us.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStart your next layered run with \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.picassoprintdtf.com\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePicasso Print DTF\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. You’ll get a faster turnaround and fewer headaches.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrequently Asked Questions \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCan You Layer DTF Transfers On Dark Shirts?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYes, and it’s where layering shines. Print a white base first, tack it for 5 seconds, then add your color layer with a full press. Never put dark ink over dark ink because it kills brightness. Use a 1mm gap between elements. Picasso Print DTF recommends a final 5-second post-press for wash durability.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHow To Layer DTF Transfers Without Cracking?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCracking happens from too much heat and overlapping adhesive. Press the first layer lightly for 5 to 7 seconds, then the top layer for 10 to 15 seconds. Leave a 1 to 2mm gap between layers. Finish with a 5-second post-press. This keeps the hand soft and prevents edge lift after washing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCan You Press DTF Twice On The Same Area?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou can, but don’t do two full presses. Use a light tack on the first hit, full cure on the second, then a short post-press. Two full cures will dull color and make the print stiff. Total heat time should stay under 25 seconds for most cotton tees to avoid scorching.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIs DTF Transfer Layering Better Than Screen Print Layers?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFor short runs and complex color, yes. DTF gives you photoreal detail without screens. Screen print layers are cheaper at 1,000 pieces but require setup. DTF layering lets you test 10 designs with no screens. For brands in Dallas doing 50 to 300 pieces, DTF wins on speed and flexibility.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCan You Overlap DTF Transfers Edge To Edge?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDon’t. Overlapping doubles thickness and creates a ridge that cracks. Instead, leave a 1 to 2mm gap or knock out the bottom layer where the top sits. This keeps the print soft and avoids the shiny box effect. It also saves you from costly reprints when customers complain about feel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhat Temperature For Layer DTF Prints?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUse 325°F to 330°F for both layers. First layer gets 5 to 7 seconds, second gets 10 to 15 seconds, post-press gets 5 seconds. Medium pressure, about 40 to 60 psi. Going hotter won’t bond better, it will just fade ink and damage the shirt. Always test on your exact blank first.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDo I Need Special Film For DTF Transfer Printing Layers?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNo, standard DTF film works. What matters is your powder and press routine. Use a fine powder for better adhesion on layers. Cure powder fully before pressing. Cheap film can cause peeling on layer two, so buy from a supplier with consistent coating. Picasso Print DTF tests every batch before it goes out.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHow Many Times Can You Repress A DTF Print?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTechnically once for a fix. After that, you risk dye migration and a glossy patch. If a layer is lifted, you can repress for 5 seconds with a cover sheet. More than that and the adhesive breaks down. Better to follow the 3-step process the first time and avoid repressing at all.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWill Layering DTF Transfers Affect Wash Durability?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNot if you do it right. A properly layered print lasts 50 plus washes with no cracking. The key is not overcooking and leaving gaps. We’ve tracked orders from clothing brands in Allen and Garland, and returns for layered prints are under 2 percent when the 5 rules are followed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCan You Layer DTF Transfers With Puff Or Glitter?\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYes, and this is where layering looks amazing. Always put puff or glitter as the top layer. Press the base flat first, then puff, then a very light 3-second press for the topper. Too much heat collapses the puff. This combo sells well for artists who want texture without a heavy plastic feel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAuthor Bio\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe’re a team of DTF printers who’ve spent years testing what actually works. We’ve experimented with layering DTF transfers on cotton, poly, and blends to find the settings that last. We’ve ruined shirts so you don’t have to. Our goal is simple: give you clear, reliable steps you can trust in your shop.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMore DTF Guides from Picasso Print DTF\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.picassoprintdtf.com\/blogs\/dtf-guide\/understanding-gang-sheets-and-their-role-in-dtf-printing\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUnderstanding Gang Sheets and Their Role in DTF Printing\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.picassoprintdtf.com\/blogs\/dtf-guide\/how-dtf-transfers-work-4-simple-steps-to-create-professional-apparel\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHow DTF Transfers Work: 4 Simple Steps to Create Professional Apparel\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.picassoprintdtf.com\/blogs\/dtf-guide\/dtf-printing-guide-file-preparation-for-sharp-vibrant-results\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDTF Printing Guide: File Preparation for Sharp, Vibrant Results\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Picasso Print","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51562790355222,"sku":null,"price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"url":"https:\/\/www.picassoprintdtf.com\/products\/can-you-layer-dtf-transfers-5-layering-rules-that-will-save-you-costly-reprints","provider":"Picasso Print","version":"1.0","type":"link"}